Charleston-born, James Beard-nominated chef William Dissen was recently interviewed on stage at the Lewisburg Literary Festival by TasteWV’s Josh Baldwin. While there to discuss his cookbook Thoughtful Cooking, topics ranged from his time at The Greenbrier and the importance of mentorship in the industry to his views on Appalachian cuisine and where it is headed. Here are some snippets from that conversation.
Q: Chef Dissen, thank you for joining us. You started out with degrees in English and French and ended up a James Beard-nominated chef. How does that happen?
A: I always tell people I was just hungry! My love for food started young—my mom even sent me to “fat camp” at the YWCA. My mother’s family actually had a farm, and I was inspired by how they grew, canned, and preserved their own food. My first job was as a dishwasher at the Charleston Tennis Club, and one day, the chef asked if I could make sandwiches and salads. I said “yes,” and here I am, 30 years later.
Q: You trained at the Greenbrier and worked with some legendary chefs there, like Peter Timmins, Mike Voltaggio, and Rich Rosendale. What was that experience like?
A: It was definitely a crazy time to be there. The Greenbrier was intense—very militant, but I needed that discipline. You’d cook hundreds of steaks a day, and the pace was relentless. Mentorship was huge there. Chef Peter Timmons, for example, taught me to “fake it till you make it”—to exude confidence even when you’re unsure. He pushed me hard, but it was always to make me better. That kind of mentorship is something I try to pass on in my own kitchens.
Q: Why is mentorship so important in the culinary world?
A: Cooking is a trade, and to be accomplished, you need to work under someone you aspire to be like. I always tell young cooks to find mentors who embody what they want to become. Working for and around the best taught me not just skills, but how to think and act as a professional.
Q: You’re known for championing Appalachian cuisine. What makes it unique?
A: Appalachia is the backbone of the South. The region’s food is shaped by its geography—mountains, rivers, valleys—and by the cultures that settled here: Irish, Italian, African American, Native American, and more. Historically, people lived off the land, and the area is incredibly biodiverse. That self-sustaining food culture is something I try to celebrate and preserve in my cooking.
Q: How does that history influence your food philosophy?
A: I look at the culture and heritage of where I live, but travel has also influenced me. I’ve been lucky to work as a culinary diplomat for the U.S. State Department, traveling the world and learning about other food cultures. I bring those flavors back and filter them through the lens of Appalachia.
Q: Sustainability is a big part of your ethos. What does “farm to table” mean to you?
A: For me, it’s about being in touch with the seasons and eating fresh, local food. My grandmother’s farm was a big influence—gardening, beekeeping, preserving. Today, we’re often disconnected from where our food comes from. Farm to table is about reconnecting with the land, eating what’s in season, and planning ahead. Fresh food tastes best, and it’s better for the community and the environment.
Q: To that point, your cookbook, “Thoughtful Cooking,” is organized by the seasons. Is that why you chose that structure for the book?
A: For sure, living in Central Appalachia, we experience all four seasons vividly, and each brings different flavors and opportunities for preservation. I wanted the book to reflect that—cooking in season, planning ahead, and preserving not just food, but community and heritage.
Q: What was the process of writing the cookbook like?
A: Writing a cookbook is like starting a new business—it’s a huge effort. I wrote the proposal years ago, but it wasn’t the right time until after I did a TV show with Gordon Ramsay. (Dissen defeated Ramsey in a cooking competition during an episode of Gordon Ramsey: Uncharted.”) Once the publisher greenlit it, I spent time in Greenbrier County writing, testing recipes, and making sure everything worked for home cooks. But now that I’ve done one, I have a model for the next.
Q: Are the recipes accessible for home cooks?
A: I tried to make them approachable. Some are “chefy,” and a few ingredients might require an online order, but most are doable at home. Some recipes take time—braises, for example—but that’s intentional. Cooking together brings people together, and some of our best memories are made in the kitchen and around the table.
Q: Is there a favorite dish of yours in “Thoughtful Cooking?”
A: It changes with the seasons, but one I love is a foraged mushroom toast—a riff on my dad’s “SOS” (creamed chipped beef on toast). We use homemade sourdough, ricotta, wild mushrooms, and lots of herbs. It’s simple but showcases technique and local ingredients.
Q: How do you balance tradition and creativity in Appalachian cuisine?
A: I love traditional dishes like soup beans and cornbread, but I also like to elevate them. For example, I’ll take country ham from a friend in Tennessee, wrap it around peaches, glaze them with bourbon barrel maple syrup, and serve with fresh cheese and hazelnuts. It’s about honoring tradition while pushing boundaries.
Q: Is there an ingredient that embodies Appalachia for you?
A: Ramps! I pickle, can, and preserve them, and always take them when I travel. They’re only available for about six weeks a year and are truly unique to the region.
Q: If readers take away one lesson from your cookbook, what should it be?
A: Food is powerful. We eat three times a day, and every choice we make can impact our health, our community, and even make a political statement. Supporting local food has a huge economic impact. Thoughtful cooking is about being present, planning, and using food as a force for good.
